28.3.07

Well, I’m not sure where I should start… I haven’t been doing anything outrageous lately- I’ll start writing, and then I may remember- we’ll see.
Since coming back from Bolivia I’ve moved into the Greens place, just down the road from where I was before. My bedroom is on the roof, with an ensuite and double bed Funnily enough I’ve seemed to move up a ‘notch’ in quality/luxury at each long-term stop on my trip- starting with the tiny room in Santiago, to a big bedroom in the last place, and now an ensuite- way to experience the hardships of Missionary life - I guess it’s a time to be content when ‘abounding’ as the Apostle Paul says. Anyway, now to some stuff that I’ve been up to:

His last weekend I got to go to the Futból again; this time against a more popular team- Universitario. I was a bit late in arriving (as I went to Puquina that morning with Ronny) so I waited in the line outside the stadium, with my ticket and with a Melgar shirt on. The shirt got me heaps of comments/questions/respect from other fans, and lots of laughs too. I guess not too many gringos go to the games and sit in the cheap seats. I got in about 10 minutes into the first half, spotted Julio waving at me way up the stand. So I pushed my way up, and just as I got seated Melgar scored. Melgar seemed to be lacking impetus in attack. Universitario had some quiet good players, and looked far more dangerous; however we had improved immensely in defence from the shocker we had vs. Sport boys. La U scored right before half time, by some brilliant play from their Colombian striker. We played a bit better in the second half, but still lacking creativity around the goal- although there was some improvement. With about 10 minutes to go we scored, sending the sell-out crowd into hysterics for a few minutes (and much relief personally, I was starting to wonder if I ‘jinxed’ the team). While we were leaving I got more comments etc. due to my shirt, and some friendly security advise (“wear that bag on your front”, I generally don’t do that, but in a crowd like that they had a very valid point) Fun times all round, can’t wait for the next big game.
I’ve restarted Spanish classes, but now only two classes a week (instead of the 10 a week with the full time schedule), which has been great. In general my fluency is improving at a good rate. I’d say, for only having been here for 3 months and having arrived with really crappy Spanish, I’m doing quite well.
My schedule is quite chilled out, which has its pluses, including time to be able to read (I’ve nearly finished The Bondage of the Will by Martin Luther- deep aye- respect!), think (this may sound really weird/mystical but having time to be able to, dare I say ‘meditate’ about stuff, things I’m coming into contact here, my future, issues in general – think things through is probably a better way to put it) hang out with locals and indulge my internet addiction (surfing the net, not the blog posting or email writing variety unfortunately). As well, there’s a Gym down the road that’s really cheap ($1.25 a time) so I go there every so often to blow of some steam.
I was hoping to play in a Basketball comp here, but the season starts in July. But I’ve had the chance to play a few time at ‘club international’ and would’ve done really well- due to my size, mad skills and from what I saw of the competition (hahaha, but seriously I’m a decent size here somehow, this one kid told me I could play centre if I was on his High School team). So it looks as if there won’t be involvement in any team sports here like Touch Rugby (they only have rugby in Lima at a few posh schools).
On the language front I have possibly my biggest/funniest mistake yet. I was chatting to one of the girls from the church and she told me some ‘goss’ about her sister and one of the guys at the church (that they were an item) and she asked me if I understood who/what she was saying. So I said “el está con su hermano” or
“so-in-so (I’m not telling you who-I’m sworn to secrecy) is with his sister” I accidentally said ‘su’ (his/her/its/polite your) instead of “tu” (your) which got us laughing- as I knew I had made a mistake as soon as I said it. I quite often have problems with tu and su, as grammatically speaking I can use both to refer to ‘your’ … I mix up formal and informal far too much when I speak…
I’ve had some problems about my ticket the last few weeks (finally resolved).
It was really all my problem, as I didn’t get a flexible enough ticket (I wasn’t really aware of the 1 year restriction I had on the other ticket). So, to make a long story short, I had to cancel my ticket, and buy another with the credit and extra cash. Thankfully it wasn’t prohibitively more expensive. The main problem was that, at the start, I was trying to sort it out remotely/via Email with an agency in Chile. I was only aware of there being one office in Peru (Lima)- however I discovered (after a few weeks of trying on the net) that there was an office in Arequipa- Which annoyed me no end… (It wasn’t in my info about overseas offices- so I (naturally) assumed that there wasn’t one here).
Anyway, you can circle the 26th of July on your calendar as the date that the prodigal son returns to NZ (with a few months to spare before the Rugby world cup- (¡Vamos All Blacks!). Those reading in Chile/Argentina can expect me to be hanging around in their respective countries for 2 weeks each before I leave. I’ll be sorting out the exact dates in the next few weeks.
anyway, that me for this post, and (finally)here are the photos from the trip:

Me, on top of a hill near by Desaguadero
Right by the immigrations office in Bolivia
From left: Jessica, Ader's friend, and Ader
The houses by the lake
And an overhead view ofthe peruvian side of Desaguadero


and a view of La Paz

I'd put up more photos but Blogspot is really slow today with uploading.

7.3.07

Bolivia, the ordeal...

Well, I’ve just recently came back from an epic weekend with the youth group to Desaguadero, a town that is split over the Peru-Bolivia border on the shores of Lake Huyñaymarka (I first though it was Lake Titicaca, but it might be a connecting wing or something…)
About 15 of us went (including some Mums and other women in the church to keep us on our best behaviour) to visit a church on the Peru side, that we have some contact with one of their members, Hilda, who works in Arequipa. Unfortunately she couldn’t make it there until Sunday.
We took the over-night bus (7.30p.m-3.00am) on Thursday night, and, surprisingly got some sleep. So, we arrived at around about 3, to be greeted by cold weather, altitude, and a muddy street with various buses waiting till the border opened. So, we walked down the street for about 20 minutes until we got to Hilda’s house (her son, Romario led the way) which had one room, two beds, a concrete floor, and no power. So, as we were all kinda cold, and there wasn’t heaps of space to sleep, we went to a roadside stall to have a coffee and some bread (cheap as chips, but dodgy as well, like old cups that you had to hope had been washed well etc. –good times!)
After that, we headed back to the house where we squeezed 4 people on to each bed, and the others on the floor somehow, or chilling outside. The room had a nice ambiance about it, with candlelight and all. Some gave up trying to get to sleep- which created more space for me so I got maybe 2 hours before I was awoken (at 6ish) saying that we were heading off to look around.
By this time the town was alive with tricycle taxis, and people own tricycles loaded with stuff, and just people in general milling around. So, after walking around bit, we found a restaurant (still a little dodgy, but a lot better than earlier… this would become a reoccurring theme during the weekend) for breakfast, then the rain poured down (and I suddenly remember that I’d forgot my rain jacket… happy days)
So, through the muddy streets we went, we all were caught out (in Arequipa it only rains in the afternoon). We eventually found a plastic dealer, so we bought sheets of plastic to make poncho thingies, oh so styley I might add…
Eventually the rain calmed down a bit, and we went to the other side of the town to Bolivia! I was expecting tight as control on the border, but people just wandered across, so I joined them- not sure if I was entering in illegally.
With the constant threat in my mind of problems with police I made a plan to save myself if they asked, I’d just show them my photocopy of my passport, not the real thing, so they wouldn’t be able to see if I was there legitimately. Despite my concerns (which would be forever put to rest later) nothing happened, I wasn’t even breaking any rules per se, as they had tight controls down the road from the town, so I was in a kind of in between area- even thought there was all the official signs and offices on either side of the river. It did feel more adventurous for a while, with the made up threat of cell time in my head (or a bribe to get out of it).
After a good look around on the other side, we went back to the Peruvian side to sort out our paper work. All the others only needed their ID cards and to fill out some stuff, which seems to work fairly well. It worked out at a very good time for me, as I needed to get my 90 day visa renewed sometime.
After a long wait for everyone to get processed, we headed off to the Bolivian border buildings (that is, all of us who could go, those who were minors needed parental permission—which was a surprise- so they had to stay- but we were only going for a night) filled out or paper work again, then crossed the border back to Peru to get our stuff (hahaha, I love this part of the world!).

So after getting all our stuff, and changing our money (One Bolivar equals about 20 cents NZ, Bolivia is the poorest country in South America and consequently, the cheapest to travel in) off we went for an adventure in La Paz (at an altitude of around about 3,600-700 in the centre, 4,000 on the outskirts, as the centre is in a valley surrounded by the outlying areas- one of the slums is said to be the fasted growing cities in South America)
The bus trip ($2NZ) was uneventful, and as we arrived the view was amazing- going down into the valley, with buildings all clinging against the hills, quite spectacular really.
After arriving, we soon found accommodation (at 10 B’s, or like, less than $2 NZ) for the night, and no, it wasn’t pretty… budget to the max- and it was sharing a double bed with someone else- but that still great value in my book.
So, we went off for a feed, which was some crappy chicken and rice or noodles- we soon found out that Peruvian cuisine (at least cheap cuisine) was a whole lot better that budget Bolivian fair (it wasn’t even much cheaper than for the same dish in Arequipa, if at all).
After that disappointment, we took a bus to the centre of the city, unfortunately I accidentally left my camera at our accommodation, but we had a great look around- everyone with their eyes peeled for bargains (Ronny had joked that Peruvians are rich in Bolivia, and he wasn’t too far off- in regards to some products) like cheap shoes, electronics clothes etc. We also had a good look at the central square (quite small considering that it has the Presidential palace, the national congress and a cathedral (circa 1800 and something). But it was still nice, and Milward joked how we were going to meet the President, Evo Morales (Think Chavez and you’ve got the right kinda picture). But, alas, we only met shoe shiners, who cleaned some of our shoes (It’s the first time I’ve had it done, quite a weird feeling, I don’t know how to describe it… it feels demeaning I guess…)
Most of the shoe shiners wear balaclavas or something else to cover there face and the stigmatism/shame associated with having to do it.
After that, we took the bus back, and relaxed for the rest of the evening.
That night was a good nights sleep, considering the circumstances (my sleeping bag came though with flying colours- and it meant that I didn’t need to use the dodgy sheets… Milward didn’t want to use them, so he didn’t get much sleep as his jersey and jacket didn’t keep him that warm…)
So, after another dodgy breakfast of some porridgey thing and bread (once again from a dodgy cup, I really should buy my own cup shouldn’t I) we headed off to the markets near the city centre.
I went off by myself (as the others weren’t on the look out for mint Inca style woolly hats etc. ) and had a “absolutely fabulous” time, you could say I shopped like a woman (exaggeration) and say it I did (I love it when I can think of something humorous to say in Spanish, it all ways goes down well- and it doesn’t need to be extremely funny, it’s almost like Fez in ‘that 70’s show’- he can say anything and it’s funny, just because of who he is)
So, for the record I purchased quite a few possible gifts, like styley Inca woolly hats for around $2 NZ (not bad aye) or bootleg Futból shirts for $5, so I got the two local teams; Bolivar and Los Tigres (the ‘tigers’ one with SINCLAIR on the back, for an extra $1), it was probably good I didn’t bring any more money, as I find bargains irresistible (especially when I’m behind a whole lot in my gifts for the family (yep, it’s a mission with a family my size, hope you don’t expect anything too outrageously cool).
The Markets were really cool, great value as I mentioned before, and they all had a good vibe. I found the Futból shirts in this street that seemed to be full of Futból related shops, with all kinds of Jerseys from all over the world (in an ideal world I would have gone over board and got shirts of all my favourite players, or made up my own shirt from scratch which was an option- I so need to design one on my computer and get it made… that’d be something….
I also got the chance to go to the centre of the city again to take photos (albeit without the others for a group shot). Happy days.
I was expecting to have killer problems with the altitude, but, to tell you the truth, I didn’t feel it as a problem… even when walking up and down the hills-though when I had my big bag I felt it (but that’s normal isn’t it? Does that count?).
After meeting up with the others we went off. I found out that the others hadn’t seen the Futból street (which was a disappointment for them, because the stuff there was about a half of the price in Arequipa)
So, we trekked off back to Desaguadero, this time in a mini bus ($2) and got back at around 2 in the afternoon. Everything went really smooth, and I got my visa renewed for until the 1st of June, and we met up with the ones left behind. So, for the afternoon we just relaxed or did whatever in the town. I went up a hill nearby with Ronny and Sabina, one of the Mums that accompanied us on the trip. The view from the top was awesome- of the lake, the mountains, and the town below. So we chatted there for a while, enjoying the view.
That evening was uneventful, we went into the bus waiting area for a feed- some more dodgy coffee and bread on the roadside- and we all made our way back to the house… and then the rain started, then the hail (which was a first time some had seen it before…quite an event for Arequipeñas). By this stage it was dark as, and Ronny was saying that we needed to find some accommodation. But apart from Ader and his friend, who had already sorted something out, no one (even those who said they could before) wanted, or could afford it for the night. So I chipped in with Ronny and got us some rooms at a place down the road, so we were all a bit wet, but happy to get some rest. We left some of the guys in the house, (funnily enough Cesár had a bed to himself, so the other 3 had to share).
After an alight night of sleep we had some breakfast (yep, more dodgy coffee and bread- but you’ve gotta love it if its for 50c).
Then we met up at the house and with Hilda (who had finally arrived) and went to the church.
When we arrived we heard singing while outside, and it didn’t sound like Spanish to me. Lo and behold I was spot on, they were singings in Aymara, in a very traditional way: with a guitarish thing, a drum and with the somewhat different melodies of the Andes. I believe that they use a different musical system than in the west- with less than 8 notes an octave, in a similar way that in the middle ages they used a different system as well. I also have a sneaking suspicion that the originators of this music had a different idea of what was good singing (maybe that too harsh) but, hey, each to their own I guess.
The church was this smallish building, with a wooded floor, wooden chairs and about 15 people (not including us) some others in the church were preparing a morning tea and lunch. After a few songs they welcomed us, and we went up and introduced ourselves. Ronny accidentally said I was from Europe, then corrected himself, but Europe stuck (as I’d find out). Then they went up and did the same thing. Then, after having a snack, we continued singing (this time in Spanish) and listened to a youngish guy give a bilingual sermon (the church official uses three languages, Aymara, Quechua and Spanish) I’m not sure if he was using Aymara or Quechua. After that we sang a song for them, which they then did the same for us.
Then, one of the leaders of the church went up and asked “the guy from Europe” to come up and share something, which freaked me out- they thought I was a full on missionary or pastor or something. So, after Ronny told them some facts (while im standing up there wondering what to say) he said I could talk about anything. So, I pretty much thanked them for their hospitality and how cool it is to have brothers and sisters in Christ all around the world… I hope I didn’t look embarrassed… that pretty much all I said. HE then asked me about what Churches are like back home, how do they worship etc… So, that got my heart rate up high for a good few minutes. Next time I’m in that situation I’ll read some verses or something- Live and learn.
After that this guy preached for ages, in Spanish so we all could understand (most of our group can’t speak much Quechua or Aymara, some of the older ones can more or less). He always lost what verse he was up too which was funny, anyway, after that we all went outside for a meal. The meal included whole gutted fish about the size of sprats, a little tomatoey sauce, potatoes, broad beans, chunyo (like a potato, but black and with a weird texture) which, once again, was probably a little suspect on the hygiene side of things. But I dug in and ate the ‘comida extremo’ as best I could, the fish was really hard to eat, as it had little bones and the head wasn’t that appetizing. I nearly finished everything, but I was full (the altitude does that to you I’ve heard… the food just staying in your stomach).
After that we headed back, and relaxed for a little while, then we went to the bus place to wait for our bus- we left early as rain was imminent in the menacing clouds.
After a long wait, we eventually got into the bus. A lot of the passengers seemed to have come back from epic shopping trips (or had bought lots of stuff to sell) so inside the bus was wild (thankfully not animals, thank God) with people stuffing things all over the bus in every nook and cranny. I guess the bottom was full, and the people here seem to have an aversion to putting their things there, preferring to have it on their lap (this weirds me out to the max, I like my comfort- only a little carry-on).
A few people were doing the rounds, trying to get other passengers to shove stuff under their seats etc. this girl asked me to look after a blanket, which was all good. Then this annoying older lady was going round trying to make people feel bad if they didn’t do her a favour by putting a box under their legs. I was fairly nice to her the first time, telling her that I couldn’t (I didn’t want to as well, I didn’t pay for a seat to have it loaded with other peoples stuff) as I had my bag underneath. So she went away, while she was away my naughty self was thinking of how to say shove that box … you get the picture, I wasn’t amused. She eventually returned in her moaning manner, saying please and begging, with a sad look on her face as if I was letting down my own grandmother. So, I told her, in no uncertain terms “Te dije que no puedo, asi que NO PUEDO- Gracias” (I told you I can’t, so I CAN’T, thank you) which shut her up good. It was quite a satisfying moment, to tell someone to leave me alone in a second language. It also gave me ‘much respect’ from the others in the youth group close by. Daniel said I was “like a Peruvian” … oh, the empowerment of language…
Unfortunately that wasn’t the worse part of the trip. For some reason, once we had reached Puno (I think it was Puno) these official looking dudes got into the bus and started searching for something (I have no idea what) asking people “whose is this bag” and opening this to have a poke around. They really ticked some people off, especially this old lady, who started hitting this guy who was asking to be able to look at some of her and her husbands luggage, he wasn’t thrilled either, so he shouted at them. Thankfully they left me alone, but this must have lasted for about an hour, with the bus stopping at some special check stations or something. I was well annoyed, as I wanted some sleep. Crazy… I couldn’t get to sleep for ages after that, but I must’ve eventually as I woke up to see that we’d reached the outskirts of Arequipa (finally) at around about 3 in the morning. So I caught a Taxi back to my place, tired out…
So that was the trip, I haven’t got sick yet (yes) but typhoid takes 2 weeks to surface (or so I’ve heard) so I’ll keep you posted. I did wake up with a killer earache though… must have been the change in altitude I guess.
Anyway, it was fun times. So the plan over the next little while is pretty much the same, but I should be moving into the Greens place sometime soon. And I should be starting up classes once a week at the language school sometime soon.

Anyway, props if you made it this far down the blog, I’ve probably set some new personal bests (just like the All Blacks in Graham Henrys master programme, how fun would that be to be a part – sounds like a perfect reality TV idea, with the people with the biggest gains etc. not getting eliminated, like that losing fat one The biggest loser, or something)
Alright, look after yourselves, and God bless.

Nathan
(i'll put up photos soonish...)

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